1.PROJECT AND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS: “PLATFORMS OF ENGINEERING EDUCATION, COMPETITIVE PRODUCTION OF SEWING INDUSTRY”

A. Slavinskaya, O. Zakharkevich, J. Koshevko, O. Syrotenko

Khmelnitskyi National University, Ukraine

Abstract

Nowadays educational processes become more and more entertainment as well as highly engaged with informational and innovative technologies in every subject area. Often it is useful to provide skills by using some training platforms those are discussed in the current work.

Training platforms for providing skills are as follows: logistic one that means to motivate and to make a professional occupation such as a clothing designer, a seamstress, a technologist popular among the youngsters; industrial platform or cluster innovation include demonstrational text sites, educational centers, expositions, top ten of the garments range; public platform consists of the top five indicators of success (always in trend, style, timeless, chic in the space of the Ukrainian background); the last one is the educational platform that is a pilot project of staffing in sewing industry (the platform includes several components).

Keywords: Training platforms, logistic, pilot project, sewing industry.

 

2. APPLICATION OF THE EXPERT SYSTEM TO DESIGN A STEWARDESS UNIFORM

O. Zakharkevich, I. Payenok, O. Hasanova, J. Vovk  

Khmelnitskyi National University,Ukraine

Abstract

Nowadays industrial world faces a lot of changes every day due to the rapid development of innovative technologies as well as globalization and fast spreading of information. In order to keep pace with trends, sewing industry and apparel design are obliged to use at least some kind of artificial intelligence (AI) along with CAD-systems and digitization techniques. Thus, the main purpose of this work is to develop a way to use the element of AI such as an expert system to design a stewardess uniform.

The hypothesis of the study is as follows: the stewardess uniform might be designed based on the typical design documentation of the garment that is already constructed at the given sewing enterprise. Input data for the development of the productive model of the expert system is information about range of stewardess uniforms that are used by various airlines. The assortment of the uniforms is analyzed. Based on the results of the analysis the way of decision-making to select a design prototype of the given uniform is developed. The stewardess uniform, which is constructed based on the recommendations of the expert system, is designed and presented in the paper.

Keywords: expert system, stewardess uniform, assortment, design.

 

3. IMPROVING THE QUALITY OF CUTTING OF TEXTILE MATERIALS

Prybeha D., Smutko S., MytsaV.

Khmelnitskyi National University

Abstract

The article presents the results of development cutting equipment of sewing enterprises. The quality of the product is laid already at the stage of cutting the textile materials into parts. At present, the level of development of the technology of clothing manufacturing has increased considerably, based on the experience gained by enterprises on the implementation of scientific developments. Therefore, there was a need for updating and replenishing information on the details of sewing details and developments.

In the work the analysis of modern technology of cutting materials and modern cutting equipment for the purpose of cutting materials rolls. The construction of a device for transverse cutting of roll materials, which has advantages due to the use of the carriage with the transport mechanism as an additional module of the cutting tape machine, is proposed. In this case, the quality of the cutting process increases, as well as the energy intensity and metal content of the device are reduced.

Keywords: cutting of textile materials, cutting equipment, clothing manufacture, cutting parameters, rolled materials.

 

4. EVALUATION OF COMFORT TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR CHILDREN’S CLOTHING

Bohonko O., MytsaV.

Khmelnitskyi National University, Ukraine

Abstract

Evaluating the quality of materials on the standard indicators of regulatory documents is important to determine the dependence of the standardized indicators on the actual.

The article observes the issues of assess the quality of garments for children. It is proposed to use the desirability function for calculating the integrated assessment of the level of quality garments. Designed a comprehensive assessment of the quality of textile materials for the manufacture of garments child assoritments enhanced comfort.

Keywords: comfort, children’s clothing, quality, comprehensive evaluation, textile materials.

 

5. THE DEVELOPMENT OF DEVICE THAT CAN EVALUATE THE HEAT-SHIELDING PROPERTIES OF MATERIALS OF CLOTHES

Zasornov O.S.

Khmelnitsky National University, Ukraine

Abstract

Existing devices for assessing the heat-shielding properties of garment materials do not involve the transmission of received measurement information at distances exceeding ten meters. This transmission is carried out by wires, which greatly impairs the operational capabilities of the devices. Existing instruments can not be practically used to control the state of heat-protective clothing during its exploitation.

The device that is being developed will allow to make a remote transmission of the received measurement information. This will make it possible to monitor the state of heat-protective clothing, which will significantly influence  the use of the device.

To measure the temperature it is suggested to use the type of thermocouple – K. The further transformation of the measurement information into a digital form is carried out by modules MAX-6675. A remote transmission of received measurement information is proposed to be made using the WIFI module ESP-8266. The maximum transmission distance of the received data can be up to four kilometres. This makes it possible to use the device for remote monitoring of the state of heat-protective clothing.

Keywords: heat-protective properties of materials, heat-protective clothing, transformation of measuring information, remote monitoring.

 

6. ALGORITHMS TO ASSESS BY CRITERIA THE HARMONY OF THE TYPOLOGICAL RANGES OF CUTTING LINES IN CLOTHES

Slavinska A. L., Syrotenko O. P., Kuleshova S. G., Zakharkevich O. V.

Khmelnitskyi National University, Ukraine

Abstract

The main objective of the study is to develop the algorithms to assess by criteria the harmony of the typological ranges of cutting lines in clothes. In order to develop the algorithms models of the analytical description of the restrictions in the modification process of the designing object were described. The developed algorithms are as follows: algorithm to specify the anthropometric information in the system of projection dimensions of harmonious female body; algorithm to classify the typical bodies by the indices of deviation in the net of harmonious cutting lines; algorithm to transform the general sketch of harmonious female body into the given body type; algorithm to design the universal construction for the transformation chain of typological range of designing object; algorithm to modify the horizontal projection cutting lines into curve lines of the garment; algorithm to define the designing object; algorithm to form the production model of the knowledge base of expert system.

Keywords: algorithm, harmonious, clothes, typological range.

 

7. APPLICATION OF THE FRACTAL GRAPHYCS AS AN INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGY IN CLOTHING DESIGN

Kuleshova S. G., Dmytryshyn T. V., Glovatskaya O. E.

Khmelnitskyi National University, Ukraine

Abstract

The research is devoted to the application of fractal algorithms in the fashion industry.

The authors’ concept of program development has been improved and tested for the method of clothing design using non-linear creative sources such as fractals.

The layout structures of the fractal organization of the authors’ collection are constructed. Determined proportional correlations have been applied in the process of women’s clothes designing. The correlations were presented as signs-symbols, which became the basis for the creation of an artistic shape.

Examples of using fractal images as a means of artistic expression in fashion design are presented. A fractal algorithm is visualized for the design of a clothing model material using special fractal filters of graphic editors. The clothing model with design of a material in the form of fractal prints is developed and sewn out.

An author’s collection of women’s ensembles of outfits entitled “Spiralisation” was made. It has been designed using ornamental compositions on the basis of fractals principle, used in trimming of the clothes.

Keywords: fractal graphics, fractal algorithm, innovative technology, adaptability, clothing design, clothes models, fashion, prints.

 

8. THE INFLUENCE OF STRUCTURAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL PARAMETERS ON THE QUALITY OF COMBED ROTOR YARNS

Prof. Dušan Trajković, Jovan Stepanović, Nenad Ćirković, Nataša Radmanovac

University of Niš, Faculty of Technology Leskovac, Serbia

Abstract

In the paper, studied was the influence of cross section number of fibers of rotor yarns made of combed cotton, twisted at various rotor rpm, on their quality. Also, defined are the possibilities of small diameter rotor both regarding reduction of linear density of rotor yarns and regarding their quality. The results show that the quality of combed rotor yarns depends significantly on cross section number of fibers and it declines significantly with the reduction of number of fibers in yarn cross section. There is also the influence of rotor rpm on the quality of the yarns, though it is somewhat less expressed. Thanks to the process of combing, short fibers and the remaining impurities are removed from the band allowing higher stability of spinning with less breaks using a unit for additional removal of impurities on the rotor spinning machine.

Keywords: rotor yarns, rotor, spinning machine, cotton fiber.

 

9. TOTAL QUALITY MANAGEMENT PRACTICES IN NIGERIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Idowu DIYAOLU; Isaac IREFIN & Joshua AKARAKIRI

Obafemi Awolowo University, Ile-Ife, Osun State, Nigeria

Abstract

The study examined TQM practices in Nigerian textile firms. Three states, Lagos, Kano and Kaduna, were purposively selected. Eighteen (18) production managers and 227 production staff were selected based on convenience. Data was collected using structured questionnaire and interview schedule. Percentages mean and analysis of variance were used for the analysis. The staff had high perception for employee participation (x=3.28) and product design (x=3.24), while education and training (x=2.83) had low perception. The implementation of leadership (F = 3.423, p < 0.05) and supplier quality management (F = 4.381, p < 0.05) varied significantly with the location of the firms. Also, the implementation of leadership (F = 3.764, p < 0.05), evaluation (F = 3.305, p < 0.05) as well as recognition and reward (F = 5.541, p < 0.05) varied significantly with the ages of the firms. The study recommends implementation of reward and recognition as well as training for staff in Nigerian textile firms.

Key words: Total Quality Management, production staff, operations, leadership, product design

 

10. SILK AND PRINTING TECHNIQUES ON SILK

Silkhouse Tsiakiris

Textile Designer, Greece

Abstract

Presentation of the advantages of silk and of different printing techniques on silk.

Keywords: silk, printing, digital printing, materials, fabrics, fashion, silk production, Greek silk

 

11. GUIDELINES ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE TEXTILE DESIGN IN THE SPECIALTY “TEXTILE – ART AND DESIGN”

 Ph.d. Tsveta Yavasheva

 National Academy of Art – Sofia,Bulgaria

Abstract

Textile specialty was created in 1959 by Prof. Marin Varbanov. From 1896 onwards, the discipline Еmbrodery, later Embrodery and Lace was studied at the then State State School of Education. The foundations of these traditions create a completely changed specialty in which the directions of development are in the field of modern textile art and textile design. The achievements in the field of textile art are part of the Bulgarian monumental textile created in the 70s and 80s of the last century. The Textiles – Art and Design specialty today stands out for its continuity and innovation. The policy of international cooperation with other academies, participation in international exhibitions and competitions, as well as the active artistic activity of lecturers and students, provides the modernity of the specialty. With its rich material base, the specialty provides students with the opportunity to unleash their creative potential.

The textile education process develops in two main directions: Textile Art and Textile Design for Interior and Clothing. It includes researching, designing and realizing in the material of works of contemporary textile art and projects in the field of industrial textile design. Over the past three years, the course in textile design has gained a new vision. In addition to research, the training course also includes knowledge in the field of textile technology for the creation of hand-drawn and computer-aided design designs tailored to the requirements of the international market. This report presents the work of the second-year students in three consecutive years of computer-based training in the field of textile design. This conference will take four graduate bachelors in 2017/2018 and a future master in textile design.

Alexandra Laskova is the first graduate bachelor in 2018 and is presented with a collection in three directions: Abstract geometry, Vintage flowers and Scratched surface. The second graduate bachelor is Vasilena Manolakeva and presents her collection: Untypical – Statics. Dynamics. Contrast. from 2017/2018. inspired by the work of P. Mondrian, the natural forms and innovations of the Memphis designer group of the 80s of the 20th century. Elisaveta Angelova is the third graduate bachelor with her collection, titled Colorful Fairy, which presents interior design drawings, created in 2015. Stiliana Jongova is the fourth graduate bachelor with a collection: Mitologia, 2018, which depicts her interpretation of ancient mythology. Margarita Berganska is an upcoming Master in 2018/2019. With collections in the field of children’s clothing and bedroom sets for interiors. The first collection presents it with a design of children’s clothing, from 2017, which represents her work as a graduate bachelor. The Flower Collection for Interior Textiles from 2018 is inspired by the beauty, tenderness and magic of nature. She is part of the student’s work for an upcoming graduate work as a Master in 2018/2019.

 

12. APPLICATION OF ILLUSTRATION IN FASHION AND TEXTILE INDUSTRY. EXAMPLES AND TRENDS

Assoc. Prof. Kalina Hristova, PhD

New Bulgarian University – Sofia, Bulgaria

Abstract

This article explores the application of the illustration in the fashion and textile industry, analyzing chronologically examples from Bulgaria and abroad. The art of illustration is on the rise and it occupies an increasing part of the visual environment. The fashion illustration has its history and tremendous importance in fashion, but the interference of illustration as a separate genre of fine art in fashion matters to the growing tendency for collaboration in creative environments and industries. The boundaries of the different genres and styles in art blur in favor of building a new identity of the fashion product.

Keywords: illustration, fashion design, pattern, textile industry

 

13. INTERNAL COMMUNICATIONS IN TEXTILE AND FASHION INDUSTRY

Evelina Hristova, Ph.D.

New Bulgarian University – Sofia, Bulgaria

Abstract

Internal communications are crucial for the organizational success nowadays. There are certain specifics of the internal communications in the textile and fashion industry in Bulgaria, based on the globalization processes. The paper reviews some of the main specifics and pays particular attention to the organizational structure and the cultural differences that may lead to failure or success.

Keywords: internal communications, Bulgarian textile and fashion industry, organizational culture, organizational structure

 

14. BEYOND REBELLION: THE MOTOR JACKET’S FASHION TREND

Christina Savova, Ph.D.

New Bulgarian University – Sofia, Bulgaria

Abstract
The article follows the development of the black leather jacket from functional overcoat as “cool”, demonstrating self-confidence, to its culmination nowadays as emblematic clothing and a leading fashion trend. It looks at the leather jacket as part of high fashion and includes examples from leading designers including Jean Paul Gaultier, Rick Owens, and Yves Saint Laurent. The short leather jacket appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century as protective clothing for motorcyclists. Over the years, the mystique of this jacket has attracted not only them, but also film stars, young people and, of course, fashion designers. It even goes into high fashion and stays among the leading fashion trends for decades.

Keywords: fashion, fashion style, fashion trend, motor jacket, leather, jacket, biker jacket

 

15. MODULAR JEWELS

Assoc. Prof. Elena Todorova, PhD

New Bulgarian University – Sofia, Bulgaria

Abstract

This article deals with a specific kind of jewels. Jewels made on the modular system principle. This is a new direction of contemporary jewelry development, created in response of the ever greater interest in the possibility of individualizing jewelry. The works of a number of young authors are surveyed in the article, in support of the thesis.

 

16. PRIMARY SOFTWARE FOR DEVELOPING DESIGNS FOR DIGITAL PRINT

Stoyan Bundjulov

New Bulgarian University – Sofia, Bulgaria

Abstract

The paper examines the construction and the colonization of a graphic design for textile printing. Adobe’s software is being used to prepare the print file. The emphasis is on the differences in black color printing, as a separate and composite file. Attention is paid to the problem of using pads for better color coverage and proper color rendering. Conclusions have been drawn on the quality and nature of print tissues.

 

17. TEXTILE ROPE ART

Ivanka Dobreva-Dragostinova

New Bulgarian University – Sofia, Bulgaria

Abstract

There is a direction in art installations which impresses with the attractive application of textile threads and ropes. A number of contemporary authors discover in these materials a way of self-expression and realization in the field of art and design. Textile installations are used not only as a decoration and highly influential artwork. The variety of functional applications in stage design, design of furniture and accessories and design of gaming environment for children are best examples of textile rope application.

Keywords: textile design, textile art

 

18. NЕW ЕRА ОF FАSHIОN MАRKЕTING – АDАPTING TО NЕW BЕHАVIОR

Stefania Temelkova, PhD, Assistant Professor  

New Bulgarian University – Sofia, Bulgaria

Abstract

Соnsumеr bеhаviоr hаs chаngеd sо much thаt nо оnе cаn rеst оn thеir lаurеls аnymоrе. Mаrkеtеrs аnd businеss lеаdеrs knоw thаt custоmеr insights аrе kеy tо building аnd mаintаining brаnd vаluе аnd prоfitаblе custоmеr rеlаtiоnships. Custоmеrs grоw clоsеr tо а brаnd thrоugh еxpеriеncеs thаt mееt аnd еxpаnd thеir еxpеctаtiоns. Cоnsumеrs nоw еxpеct brаnds tо cоmе tо thеm whеrе thеy аrе: bе аvаilаblе оn pоpulаr оnlinе plаtfоrms, аnd dеlivеr whеn аnd hоw cоnsumеrs wаnt.

Keywords: fashion marketing, textile, behavior

 

19. SOCIAL ENVIRONMENT IMPACT ON CHILDREN’S CLOTHING

Rossitsa Rangelova Ph.D.

New Bulgarian University – Sofia, Bulgaria

Abstract

Nowadays diverse social environment has become one of the most important factors shaping the choice of clothing for children. In this environment today’s children form their taste, lifestyle and style of dressing. The younger the children are, the more they are dependent on the choice of their parents, who in turn select clothes for them depending on their social environment and lifestyle.

From early age children have been influenced by cartoons and computer characters who showering them from all sides, and quite logically copying they vision. Urban culture, imposed as a lifestyle by fashion magazines promoted through films, and creation of ” fashion icons”, including films on children’s cartoon channels, have also an influenced on children’s wardrobe.

In addition, it has become increasingly important for children to be dressed in a way approved by their peers. From this perspective, culture of styles in modern fashion is key role in modern man’s ability to communicate and be accepted among people and groups with diverse lifestyles.

 

20. CONSEQUENCES OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY AND INNOVATION IN TEXTILE RECYCLING

Mariya Yurukova

“Circle per Square” Ltd. 

Abstract
Did you know that every year in Europe and the USA more than 20 million textile products are manufactured and tossed out, when nearly 100% of the textile production can be recycled? Simultaneously, textile manufacturing is one of the most polluting industries in the whole world. Each year 2 billion t-shirts are sold worldwide. The average life of a t-shirt is approximately 3 years. After that, we simply throw it away because it has already become old-fashioned, does not fit us or is worn-out. We end up casting it aside and forget about it immediately.  We created our project with the belief that we can reduce textile waste. Through the campaign called “Knit with T-shirts”, we want to encourage awareness among the population about the consequences of the textile industry.  From old textile we make yarn with which we knit beautiful, unique interior accessories – poufs, carpets, cushions, etc. We also get in touch with different corporations and educational institutions that would like to fund the construction of ecological place for rest made from recycled textiles. We want to turn the rest room into an office or a classroom into a high school in a great relaxation place, while at the same time the company employees or students can learn about the curious facts of the textile industry through information materials.

 

21. SPECIALIZED COMPUTER DESIGN, 3D MODELING AND OPEN-SOURCE SYSTEMS IN FASHION AND TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Tihomir Dovramadjiev,  Kremena Cankova, Ginka Jecheva

Technical University of Varna, Bulgaria

Abstract

Modern technological means are increasingly used in the field of fashion and textile industry. At the design stage, the application of specialized computer software systems is a necessity. They help for more efficient, precise and quality design of the developed models. In practice specialized program products designed for specific needs, universal CAD systems, vector and raster programs, as well as open-source systems are used. The present study aims to analyze leading specialized software applications in the fashion and textile industry, paying particular attention to open-source 3D systems, where anatomical and anthropological parameters are assembled, making it possible to construct correctly the developed models.

Keywords: 3D, Open-source, Blender, MakeHuman, Clothes

 

22. SCR IN THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY OF THE BALKAN REGION

Natasha Sivevska

Textile Trade association-Textile cluster, MK

Yordan Belvodski

Textile and Clothes Branch Organization, BG 

Abstract

Corporate and social responsibility is one of the most important subjects in clothing and textile industry worldwide. It covers mostly the fashion industry and mainly the production capacities. The number of the byers looking for a CSR certified production capacities from the clothing industry is increasing, so the companies will have to adjust to those requirements.  Since most of the requirements under the CSR standards ( SA8000 and  BSCI/SEDEX/ etc) are  covered by the national  laws, the companies will just have to work on their improvements and to identified the discrepancies trough self-assessment. In purpose to help companies to do that, we develop a QCC (Quality control checkpoints) and procedure for self-assessment, so the companies can follow the requirements and make certain adjustments. Further, under Macedonia/Bulgaria IPA cross border project a  SCR label TRUSTED BALKAN APPAREL was develop with the aim of  helping companies from the Balkan region to implement ISO 26000 standard and to be recognized by the buyers as a SCR complied companies.

Keywords: Corporate and social responsibility, clothing industry, self-assessment, quality control check points, ISO 26000, Trusted Balkan apparel. 

 

23. SEMIOTIC PERSPECTIVE ON FASHION INDUSTRY

Ivo Ivanov Velinov Ph.D. Assistant Professor

South-East European Center for Semiotic Studies; Lecturer in Semiotics, Sociology and Anthropology – New Bulgarian University, Sofia, Bulgaria

 Abstract

The proposal of this paper is closely integrated within the theme of the conference and contains reference to cultural branding in fashion consumption contexts. Fashion industry has been studied as an operative model for implementing cultural vibrancy, creative economy, tangible and intangible assets whereby culture is a necessity for sustainable development. The discussion concerning tendencies and innovations in fashion industry is confronted by quite serious challenges not only in the business world, but in consumerism and materialism in the context of fashion consumption, trends and culture.

Keywords: fashion industry, semiotic, fashion consumption

 

24. FASHION TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

As. Phd. Dinka Kasabova

Academy of Music, Dance and Fine Arts – Plovdiv, Bulgaria

Abstract

The article gives an overview of the latest technological methods in the textile and fashion industry. It studies contemporary trends in production and looks at its effects on the planet. It outlines alternatives for more environmentally friendly and sustainable production.

Keywords: textile industry, fashion, technology

 

25. HOW TECHNOLOGIES CHANGE THE FUTURE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

Silvia Kabaivanova

Fashion.bg

Abstract

The purpose of the presentation is to show some of the most interesting innovations and trends in the fashion industry that will determine its future. They are influenced by the factors that change the fashion industry at the moment:

– overproduction and oversupply

– enormous negative impact on the environment

– unethical manufacturing

– fast development of e-shopping

– closure of physical stores

– technology development

Fabrics made from oranges, leather made from apples or mushrooms are part of the innovative materials being considered. 3D is actually entering the market with the new Adidas – Futurecraft 4D sneakers. Ultrasonic sewing,  stores without a single cashier or self-service checkout stand, virtual reality, 3D scanners and more interesting innovations show the way the brands will go on to build a better future for the fashion industry.

Keywords: fashion industry, technologies

 

26. COLOR ANALYSIS OF ORCHIDS (ORCHIDACEAE)

Zlatin Zlatev

Trakia University, Faculty of Technics and Technologies

 Abstract

This study represents the meaning, feasibility and usefulness of the color of orchid flowers as a source of inspiration for dresses design. For objective representation of these colors is used processing of pictures of orchids in Matlab environment. Firstly the picture is divided in three major color channels R, G and B and the minimum, maximum and the mean value of color components is taken into account. based on the obtained colors can be made sketches of dresses. These sketches would be the basis for making a survey of consumer opinion on the use of this color in the design of garments.

Keywords: Orchid, Color models, Color features, Online color extraction tools