Articles for the year 2017
Published in issue 1
1. TRANSFER OF COMPUTER GENERATED FORMS TO THE CONTEMPORARY TEXTILE Authors:
Petya Boneva – 1, Zlatin Zlatev – 2, Tanya Sarakostova – 2
1 – Agrarian and Industrial Faculty, Department of Industrial Design, University of Ruse, 8 Studentska str., 7017, Ruse, Bulgaria, e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
2 – Trakia University – Stara Zagora, faculty “Engineering and Technology”,
38 Graf Ignatiev str., 8602, Yambol, Bulgaria, e-mail: email@example.com Abstract:
The report provides an analysis of current trends in the development of components for textile designs using computer-generated forms. It is proposed that in the use of Lissjous figures, the ratio of the main coefficients influencing the formation of the figures have to corresponds to the Golden Ratio. In creating the figures were used available software tools such as spreadsheets. Shown as example is the application of the resulting figures in the textile and interior design. Keywords: Textile design, Lissajous figures, Golden ratio Full report:The entire report
2. Single-purpose optimization of technological parameters of sewing products Authors:
Assoc.Prof. Miroslav Petrov, Ph.D – Technical University of Gabrovo, Assoc. Prof. Mariel Penev, Ph.D – Technical University of Gabrovo, Daniel Angelov, Ph.D – Lovech, Bulgaria Abstract:
The aim of the report is to make single-purpose optimization aggregated utility function for sewing products. Devices are made with different thickness of the needle and the geometry of the blade and also with a different density stitch line. Keywords: optimization; sewing products; needle. Full report: The entire report
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Published in issue 2
1. EVALUATING THE LEVEL OF CLOTHES HARMONISATION
Authors: Svetlana Kuleshova, Alla Slavinska, Oksana Zakharkevich, Galina Shvets – Khmelnitsky National University, Ukraine
Abstract: Aesthetic garment quality is one of the most important problems of the apparel design. Fashion designer has a need in some numerical methods to evaluate the level of harmonization in order to reveal the weaknesses in the garment design. Method of complex assessment of aesthetic quality in clothes design is based on the calculation of the weighting factors of unit indexes of aesthetic quality. Compiled list of indexes which characterise aesthetic garment quality is represented in the table form. The weighting factors of the indexes were calculated. Sequence of actions for the evaluation the level of harmonization is presented with examples of women’s outfits.
Keywords: Harmonization, Aesthetic quality, Index, Aesthetic requirements
2. Analysis of existing rain modeling methods for clothing testing
Authors: eng. Daniel Angelov Ph.D – Lovech, Bulgaria
Abstract: The report looked at apparatuses that formed raindrops when testing the teal products. The most frequently used appliances are considered with their advantages and disadvantages.
Keywords: raindrops; sewing products; water resistance.
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Published in issue 3
1. Image clothing as a perceptual component of clothing design
Authors: Svetlana Kuleshova, Oksana Zakharkevich, Galina Shvets – Khmelnitskyi National University, Ukraine
Abstract: In the paper image clothing is described as a result of interaction of person’s coloring and psychological features of person. The main idea of the article is that every person has a unique pattern of body coloring and also particular preferences for color that relate to their temperament and past experiences. Contemporary study of four classical temperaments in the approaches of image clothing and selecting colors is applied in the work. Authors improved the incidence matrixes that show the relationships between two classes of objects: first one shows the relationship between clothing colors and personality; and the second one is about to identify the best color palette for person’s body coloring.
Keywords: consumer, psychological comfort, coloring, temperament, image clothing, perception
2. Second Triennial of Thread Art, Hangzhou, China, 2016
Authors: Assoc. Prof. PH. D Adelina St. Popnedeleva – National Academy of Arts, Sofia-Bulgaria
Abstract: The main concept of the exhibition is weaving. The weaving process becomes the basis for a historical narrative about the development of textiles. The exhibition features classical works, works in which expression is through the material, and those in which the idea is expressed through techniques and materials that at first glance do not relate to textile art. The artistic forms include a huge variety – from drawing to art book, from patchwork to painting, from wall carpet to spatial environments, sculptures in the external environment, from performance and video to interactive installations. The Bulgarian participation in the second triennial, Hangzhou, is by Adelina Popnedeleva with video installation “Masochistic Performance by Hans Christian Andersen”.
Keywords: weaving, triennial biennial, China, contemporary art, Bulgarian participation
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Published in issue 4
1. The choice of methods for determination of oe-rotor yarns specific twisting
Authors: Dušan Trajković, Jovan Stepanović, Nenad Ćirković, Nataša Radmanovac – University of Niš, Faculty of Technology, Leskovac, Serbia
Abstract: There exist essential differences between the mechanical models of twisting ring spun and OE-rotor spun yarns, and the internal structure of these two yarn types. The twisting of single thread ring spun yarns is determined by standardized methods (the untwisting method, the spanning and differential methods) that give good results. However, due to the specific structure of the OE-rotor yarn these methods, although used in laboratories, do not give reliable results, showing, as a rule, slightly lower twisting values than the real (nominal) one. Therefore, the reference data recommend modified spanning method, the so called Schütz-Queny method. In this work, compared are the test results of twisting of OE-rotor spun yarns with known “nominal” and “machine” twisting values obtained by use of well known standard procedures and by modified procedures. The test results and the correlative analysis indicate a higher objectivity of the modified procedure.
Keywords: yarn, rotor, twisting, test procedures
2. New interpretations of old universal truths
Authors: Assoc. Prof. Adelina St. Popnedeleva- National Academy of Arts, Sofia-Bulgaria
Abstract: According to Derrida, in post modernity there are no facts but only interpretations. In the tradition vice versa- there is a model of life that is shown in the sacred time of creation and which should be followed consistently.
In “New interpretations of old universal truths”, I look at works from 2004 to 2017 of students of the Textile – Art and Design specialty of the National Art Academy, Sofia, Bulgaria, where I teach. I have dealt with works related to traditional textile practices through material, technique, ornamentation, sign, or sense.
I also included my work “Concreating Tradition”, which plays with the meaning of interpretation.
An aesthetic solution in the spirit of fine art through the plastic transformation of traditional ornaments; use of non-traditional material and game with modules; merging real life with ancient tradition; text and textiles conceptually and meaningfully united; the ritual as a performance, and the multiplicity of interpretation, are the issues addressed in the selected works.
Keywords: textiles, post modernity, interpretations, conceptual art, aesthetics
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Articles in issue 5-forthcoming publication
1. ADAPTATION OF FOLKLORE MOTIFS TO CONTEMPORARY TEXTILE
Authors: Petya Boneva – Agrarian and Industrial Faculty, Department of Industrial Design, University of Ruse, Bulgaria; Zlatin Zlatev – Trakia University – Stara Zagora, faculty “Engineering and Technology”, Yambol, Bulgaria; Geeta Mahale – Department of Textile and apparel Designing, University of agriculture sciences, Dharwad, 580007, Karnataka, India.
Abstract: The paper provides an analysis of current trends in the development of components for textile designs using computer-generated forms. The contours of national folk motifs are obtained by software tools. Color palettes and the descriptions are obtained by online tool that use k-means clustering and Internet databases to obtain and describe colors. A survey was conducted on consumer opinion when choosing items of folk costumes. As a criterion for comparison of the results from survey is used the colorfulness of the elements with color combinations. The results from survey are processed by method “Correspondence analysis”. In creation of the figures were used available online software tools. As an example is shown the application of the resulting patterns and repeats in the interior design.
Keywords: Color, Correspondence analysis, Digital design, Folk elements
2. Formulation of multivariate, optimal compromise acceptable solutions of technological parameters of sewing devices
Authors: Assoc.Prof. Miroslav Petrov, Ph.D – Technical University of Gabrovo, Assoc. Prof. Mariel Penev, Ph.D – Technical University of Gabrovo, Daniel Angelov, Ph.D – Lovech, Bulgaria
Abstract: The aim of the report is to make formulation of multivariate, optimal compromise acceptable solutions of technological parameters of sewing devices.
Keywords: optimization; sewing products; needle.