Articles published in number 4/2017
1. The choice of methods for determination of oe-rotor yarns specific twisting
Authors: Dušan Trajković, Jovan Stepanović, Nenad Ćirković, Nataša Radmanovac – University of Niš, Faculty of Technology, Leskovac, Serbia
Abstract: There exist essential differences between the mechanical models of twisting ring spun and OE-rotor spun yarns, and the internal structure of these two yarn types. The twisting of single thread ring spun yarns is determined by standardized methods (the untwisting method, the spanning and differential methods) that give good results. However, due to the specific structure of the OE-rotor yarn these methods, although used in laboratories, do not give reliable results, showing, as a rule, slightly lower twisting values than the real (nominal) one. Therefore, the reference data recommend modified spanning method, the so called Schütz-Queny method. In this work, compared are the test results of twisting of OE-rotor spun yarns with known “nominal” and “machine” twisting values obtained by use of well known standard procedures and by modified procedures. The test results and the correlative analysis indicate a higher objectivity of the modified procedure.
Keywords: yarn, rotor, twisting, test procedures
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2. New interpretations of old universal truths
Authors: Assoc. Prof. Adelina St. Popnedeleva- National Academy of Arts, Sofia-Bulgaria
Abstract: According to Derrida, in post modernity there are no facts but only interpretations. In the tradition vice versa- there is a model of life that is shown in the sacred time of creation and which should be followed consistently.
In “New interpretations of old universal truths”, I look at works from 2004 to 2017 of students of the Textile – Art and Design specialty of the National Art Academy, Sofia, Bulgaria, where I teach. I have dealt with works related to traditional textile practices through material, technique, ornamentation, sign, or sense.
I also included my work “Concreating Tradition”, which plays with the meaning of interpretation.
An aesthetic solution in the spirit of fine art through the plastic transformation of traditional ornaments; use of non-traditional material and game with modules; merging real life with ancient tradition; text and textiles conceptually and meaningfully united; the ritual as a performance, and the multiplicity of interpretation, are the issues addressed in the selected works.
Keywords: textiles, post modernity, interpretations, conceptual art, aesthetics