Статии 2018г.

Статии в брой 1 / 2018

1.Адаптиране на фолклорни мотиви за съвременен текстил
Автори:Петя Бонева – Аграрно-индустриалeн факултет, катедра „Промишлен дизайн“, Русенски университет-България; Златин Златев – Тракийски университет, факултет „Техника и технологии“ – Ямбол, България; Геета Махале – департамент „Текстил и дизайн на облеклото“ – Университет по селскостопански науки, Dharwad Карнатака, Индия.
Abstract:The paper provides an analysis of current trends in the development of components for textile designs using computer-generated forms. The contours of national folk motifs are obtained by software tools. Color palettes and the descriptions are obtained by online tool that use k-means clustering and Internet databases to obtain and describe colors. A survey was conducted on consumer opinion when choosing items of folk costumes. As a criterion for comparison of the results from survey is used the colorfulness of the elements with color combinations. The results from survey are processed by method “Correspondence analysis”. In creation of the figures were used available online software tools. As an example is shown the application of the resulting patterns and repeats in the interior design.
Keywords: Color, Correspondence analysis, Digital design, Folk elements 

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2.Формулиране на многовариантни, оптимални компромисно допустими решения на технологични параметри на шевни изделия
Автори: Доц. д-р Мирослав Петров – Технически университет – Габрово; Доц. д-р Мариел Пенев – Технически университет – Габрово; д-р инж. Даниел Ангелов – Ловеч
Abstract: The aim of the report is to make formulation of multivariate, optimal compromise acceptable solutions of technological parameters of sewing devices.
Keywords: optimization; sewing products; needle. 

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Статии в брой 2 / 2018

1.Физиологични характеристики на тъкани от памук и полиестер, предназначени за производството на спортни обувки

Автори: Tatjana Šarac-University of Niš, Faculty of Technology, Leskovac, Serbia Sandra Stojanović-University of Niš, Faculty of Technology, Leskovac, Serbia Nenad Ćirković-University of Niš, Faculty of Technology, Leskovac, Serbia Dušan Trajković – University of Niš, Faculty of Technology, Leskovac, Serbia 

Abstract: The comfort of clothing depends on mechanical and thermal properties, as well as on moisture transfer properties of the textile material. Permeability and moisture absorption of the textile material depend on the characteristic of the material itself (raw material composition, structure and construction) as well as from the temperature, pressure and humidity of the air. For a comfortable feeling on the body, it is necessary that the sweat from the skin surface is transported through textile material in the form of steam or liquid. So the textile material that touches the skin would feel dry.

This paper presents the results of water vapour permeability, water absorption, capillarity and permeability of knitted fabrics made of cotton and polyester fibers, intended for the manufacture of sports garments. The obtained results can be used to investigate the thermo-physiological properties of materials as well as their combinations in the design of sportswear.

Keywords: water vapour permeability, water retention, air permeability, knitted fabric

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Статии в брой 3 / 2018

1.Второ триенале на нишковото изкуство ”Тъкането и ние”, Ханджоу, Китай, 2016

Автори: доц. д-р Аделина Ст. Попнеделева-Национална художествена академия, София

Abstract: The main concept of the exhibition is weaving. The weaving process becomes the basis for a historical narrative about the development of textiles. The exhibition features classical works, works in which expression is through the material, and those in which the idea is expressed through techniques and materials that at first glance do not relate to textile art. The artistic forms include a huge variety – from drawing to art book, from patchwork to painting, from wall carpet to spatial environments, sculptures in the external environment, from performance and video to interactive installations. The Bulgarian participation in the second triennial, Hangzhou, is by Adelina Popnedeleva with video installation “Masochistic Performance by Hans Christian Andersen”.

Keywords: weaving, triennial biennial, China, contemporary art, Bulgarian participation

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2.Изображенията на облекло като перцептуален компонент за дизайн на облеклото

Автори: Светлана Кулешова, Алла Славинска, Оксана Закхарчевич, Галина Швец -Национален университет “Хмелницки”, Украйна

Abstract: In the paper image clothing is described as a result of interaction of person’s coloring and psychological features of person. The main idea of the article is that every person has a unique pattern of body coloring and also particular preferences for color that relate to their temperament and past experiences. Contemporary study of four classical temperaments in the approaches of image clothing and selecting colors is applied in the work. Authors improved the incidence matrixes that show the relationships between two classes of objects: first one shows the relationship between clothing colors and personality; and the second one is about to identify the best color palette for person’s body coloring.

Keywords: consumer, psychological comfort, coloring, temperament, image clothing, perception

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Статии в брой 4

1.Анализ на потребителското мнение за персонализация на облекло

Автори: Златин Златев1, Шафагат Махмудова2, Таня Димитрова1, Нели Русева1
1Тракийски Университет, факултет “Техника и технологии” – Ямбол, e-mails: zlatin.zlatev@trakia-uni.bg, prestige123@abv.bg, rusevaneli@abv.bg;2Institute of Information Technology, Azebaijan National Academy of  Sciences,  e-mail: shafagat_57@mail.ru
Abstract: A survey was carried out on the awareness and willingness of the consumers in Yambol, Bulgaria to use the mass customization tools when purchasing clothing on-line. The results show that they do not have enough information to use mass personalization when ordering clothes online. This low awareness leads to indecision for the design and purchase of clothing using mass personalization tools. Obtained results are compared to those available in known literature about Germany and Great Britain. Based on the results of this review and analysis, recommendations for practice are proposed.
Keywords: Mass personalization, Questionnaire survey, Comparative analysis

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Статии в брой 5

1.Аксесоари от плъст
Автори: доц. Елена Тодорова – Нов Български университет, Департамент „Дизайн”, 
София-България,  е-mail: leni.art@abv.bg
Abstract: В тази статия обект на изследване е традиционна техника за обработка на натурална вълна, позната под името felt и нейното приложение при създаването на модни аксесоари. Като пример за успешен дизайн на накити от нетъкан текстил е разгледано творчеството на младата американска дизайнерка Шели Джоунс. Представено е също творчеството на Джулиан Горман и Лаури Шамберс  и  техните невероятни шапки от плъст.

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2.Модата според един графит на жена от храма “Св. София” в Константинопол
Автори: Кристина Савова – Нов Български университет – София-България, е-mail:  ksavova@nbu.bg
Abstract: Едно от местата, в което се срещат голям брой графити е “Великата църква” или “Св. София” в Константинопол – прочутият кръстокуполен храм, който построил император Юстиниан І Велики през 6 в. Той се смятал за едно от чудесата на света и най-важната религиозна постройка на византийската столица. “Св. София” била фокус на Божията благословия и благодат, а разказите за чудесата в нея били познати далеч зад пределите на Византия. Графитите във “Великата църква” включват не само надписи на различни езици, но и рисунки. Върху мраморната стенна облицовка, отдясно и под рамката на последния (отляво надясно) прозорец на източната стена на северната галерия, е издълбана плитко една твърде интерсна рисунка. Тя е разположена на около 130 см от нивото на пода. Над нея са изписани два гръцки монограма: “Мелетий” и “Патриархос”, а между тях поменален кирилски надпис, датиран между втората половина на 12 в. и първата половина на 13 в.5 Върху поменалният надпис и, използвайки част от кирилските букви, анонимен автор е изписал на гръцки “дякониса”, вероятно заради женската фигура, държаща халис в ръка под него. Но рисунката няма връзка със споменатите надписи и не може да се определи като дякониса поради липсата на характерните за този чин одежди6. Предмет на тази статия е именно облеклото на женската фигура, което според нас носи всички белези на западната мода от края на 14 – началото на 15 в.

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Статии в брой 6

1.Техниката шибори при аксесоарите
Автори: доц. Елена Тодорова – Нов Български университет, Департамент „Дизайн”, 
София-България,  е-mail: leni.art@abv.bg
Abstract: Съвременната мода има свойството да експериментира, да провокира и да създава, както актуални за определени тенденции и течения образци, така и такива, които просто отговарят в най-висока степен на конкретните условия. Динамиката на разпространение на модни аксесоари, които са продукт на разнообразни творчески търсения, извън традиционните техники…

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Статии в брой  7

1.Брошките
Автори: доц. Елена Тодорова – Нов Български университет, Департамент „Дизайн”, 
София-България,  е-mail: leni.art@abv.bg
Abstract:  Светът   на  модата е капризен и бързо променя облика си. Бижутата като част от модните аксесоари също са подвластни на променящите се тенденции. И все пак има някои вечни накити, които са просъществували през вековете. Например брошките. Появили са се в древността…..

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Статии в брой  8

1.Приложим текстилен елемент в интериора
Автори: Катерина Деспот – Университет Гоце Делчев – департамент “Архитектура и Дизайн”, Македония, e-mail: katerina.despot@ugd.edu.mk; Васка Сандева  – Университет Гоце Делчев-Щип, Департамент “Архитектура и Дизайн”, Македония, e-mail: vaska.sandeva@ugd.edu.mk
Abstract: The interior arrangement is part of the architecture and decorative art that deals with the drawing and shaping of the interior of the buildings, which are the part of the space called decorative design in which the interior textiles enter. The internal arrangement deals with the shaping and deployment of functional elements, where the emphasis is on the layout and the arrangement of the furniture. 
For the design and layout of furniture, the textile has a strong underlining of the ambient, ie the effects achieved with all the textile parts in the space give it a completely different note, which means that it is not devoid of emotion and home atmosphere. Decorative materials include decorative-functional items in ceramics, wood, glass, metal or textiles. This text includes text as a decor in interior design and architecture. The key element in decorating the interior is the choice of the fabric. Textile in the interior is part of the basic factors that influence the design which on the other hand depends on the desired direction or style.
Keywords:  decorative design, space, textiles, fabrics

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2.Философия на конструктивните елементи в модата
Автори: проф. д-р Елсайд Елнашар – Кафрелшейх университет, Египет
Abstract: Fashion philosophy is not in essence but a network of intellectual relations and mental appeals, which calls on each researcher to work his mind in the study of the issues presented to him without waiting for what others have said, but not limited to the general public. Fashion designing is the creative field in which trendy and appealing apparels or accessories are designed. Aesthetics experience and Fashion technology covers the manufacturing process and involves a wide usage of technology in the production of apparels. 
Designing is a creative process. Design can be seen to be a creative, magical, intuitive, and elusive process. It is a process for creating solutions with respect to a given problem. In fact, design is form of problem-solving, or a way of looking at a problem whose primary goal is to solve a complicated problem and to create or explore innovative options. Philosophy of the design process transforms ideas into reality, based on designers’ conceptual ideas with respect to practical solutions…

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Статии в брой  9

1.Насоки на развитието на текстилния дизайн в специалност „Текстил – изкуство и дизайн“ при НХА
Автори: преп. д-р Цвета Явашева-Иванова – Национална художествена академия,  
София-България
Abstract: Textile specialty was created in 1959 by Prof. Marin Varbanov. From 1896 onwards, the discipline Еmbrodery, later Embrodery and Lace was studied at the then State School of Education. The foundations of these traditions create a completely changed specialty in which the directions of development are in the field of modern textile art and textile design. The achievements in the field of textile art are part of the Bulgarian monumental textile created in the 70s and 90s of the last century. The Textiles – Art and Design specialty today stands out for its continuity and innovation. The policy of international cooperation with other academies, participation in international exhibitions and competitions, as well as the active artistic activity of lecturers and students, provides the modernity of the specialty. With its rich material base, the specialty provides students with the opportunity to unleash their creative potential. The textile education process develops in two main directions: Textile Art and Textile Design for Interior and Clothing. It includes researching, designing and realizing in the material of works of contemporary textile art and projects in the field of industrial textile design. Over the past three years, the course in textile design has gained a new vision. In addition to research, the training course also includes knowledge in the field of textile technology for the creation of hand-drawn and computer-aided design designs tailored 
to the requirements of the international market. This report presents the work of the second-year students in three consecutive years of computer-based training in the field of textile design. This conference will take five graduate bachelors in 2017/2018 and a future master in textile design. Alexandra Laskova is the first graduate bachelor in 2018 and is presented with a collection in three directions: ABSTRACT GEOMETRY, VINTAGE FLOWERS and SCRATCHED SURFACE. The second graduate bachelor is Vasilena Manolakeva and presents her collection: UNTYPICAL – STATICS. DYNAMICS. CONTRAST. from 2017/2018. inspired by the work of P.Mondrian, the natural forms and innovations of the Memphis designer group of the 80s of the 20th century. Elisaveta Angelova is the third 
graduate bachelor with her collection, titled COLORFUL FAIRY, which presents interior design drawings, created in 2015. Ioanna Ivanova is a fourth student, who presents the collection of her bachelor’s degree NEON TROPICS. This is a collection of designs designed for swimsuits and bags, as well as sportswear for summer 2018. Stiliana Jongova is 
the fourth graduate bachelor with a collection: MITOLOGIA, 2018, which depicts her interpretation of ancient mythology. Margarita Berganska is an upcoming Master in 2018/2019. With collections in the field of  children‘s clothing and bedroom sets for interiors. The first collection presents it with a design of children‘s clothing, from 2017, which represents her work as a graduate bachelor. The FLOWER COLLECTION for Interior Textiles from 2018 is inspired by the beauty, tenderness and magic of nature. She is part of the student‘s work for an upcoming graduate work as a Master in 2018/2019.

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 2.Влияние на структурните и технологични параметри на качеството на комбинирани и роторни прежди
Автори:
проф. д-р Душан Трайкович, проф. д-р Йован Степанович, доц. д-р  Ненад Чиркович, Наташа Радмановач – Университет-Ниш, Факултет Технологии –  Лесковац, Сърбия
Abstract: In the paper, studied was the influence of cross section number of fibers of rotor yarns made of combed cotton, twisted at various rotor rpm, on their quality. Also, defined are the possibilities of small diameter rotor both regarding reduction of linear density of rotor yarns and regarding their quality. The results show that the quality of combed rotor yarns depends significantly on cross section number of fibers and it declines significantly with the reduction of number of fibers in yarn cross section. There is also the influence of rotor rpm on the quality of the yarns, though it is somewhat less expressed. Thanks to the process of combing, short fibers and the remaining impurities are removed from the band allowing higher stability of spinning with less breaks using a unit for additional removal of impurities on the rotor spinning machine.
Keywords: rotor yarns, rotor, spinning machine, cotton fiber.

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Статии в брой  10

 1.Специализирано рисуване за модни дизайнери
Автори: Д-р Александър Гергинов
Abstract: Преди да говорим за специализирано рисуване за модни дизайнери и да маркираме проблемите, с които се занимава този тип рисуване в програмата по моден дизайн или модна илюстрация  е  редно да  разгледаме  различни  типове  методики използвани в класическото рисуване. Тези методики са и основа за развитие на разнообразни програми подкрепящи образователната програма на специалности, свързани с дизайн, сценография, мода и т.н.  Специализираното рисуване за модни дизайнери от друга страна има своите проблеми и за да бъдат решени е необходимо да се изгради систематизирана програма обвързваща специалността и необходимите крайни резултати и цели налагани от естеството на професията и пазара.

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2.Последици от текстилната индустрия и иновации в рециклирането на текстил
Автори: Мария Юрукова – „Кръг на Квадрат“ ЕООД
Abstract: Did you know that every year in Europe and the USA more than 20 million textile products are manufactured and tossed out, when nearly 100% of the textile production can be recycled? Simultaneously, textile manufacturing is one of the most polluting industries in the whole world. Each year 2 billion t-shirts are sold worldwide. The average life of a t-shirt is 
approximately 3 years. After that, we simply throw it away because it has already become old-fashioned, does not fit us or is worn-out. We end up casting it aside and forget about it immediately.  We created our project with the belief that we can reduce textile waste. Through the campaign called “Knit with T-shirts”, we want to encourage awareness among the population about the consequences of the textile industry. From old textile we make yarn with which we knit beautiful, unique interior accessories – poufs, carpets, cushions, etc. We also get in touch with different corporations and educational institutions that would like to fund the construction of ecological place for rest made from recycled textiles. We want to turn the rest room into an office or a classroom into a high school in a great relaxation place, while at the same time the company employees or students can learn about the curious facts of the textile industry through information materials.
Keywords: textile industry, textile recycling, innovation, handmade yarn, craft, startup, knitting, zero waste, ecofriendly technology, home accessories, relaxing places

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3.Практическо използване на програмния модул “VISHIVANKA” за попълване на някой части на орнаменти на бродерията с двойно кръстовидни елементи

Автори: Засорнова, И. О.  – Хмелницки Национален Университет, Украйна
Abstract: Nowadays people have access to a variety of modern computer programmes for creating the embroidery in the “Khrest” method. However, even using the best up-to-date technologies and devices can’t guarantee an absolute success, that is why defects on clothes with embroidery are not a rare case. In order to enhance the quality of embroidery, the first programme module “VISHIVANKA” was created by the author. This module establishes the graphical route to pass some part of the ornament, which is filled with cruciform elements. To get the optimal route, it is suggested to use the algorithms of Luke Tremo and “left hand algorithm” with control of the process of going through the free parts of the maze.
This method allows to make ornaments of any shape without transitional stitches, as they are included to the list of double cruciform elements. The final result of the module’s work is the program that can control the embroidery machine for creation of ornaments, made of double cruciform elements. As the result of using the program module “VISHIVANKA” the embroidery element was created, the quality of which rose on 15,3%.
Keywords: double cruciform element, software module “VISHIVANKA”, a program to manage embroidery machine.

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Статии в брой  11

1.Социална отговорност в индустрията за производство на облекло в Балканския регион
Автори: Наташа Сивевска – Текстилен клъстер, Македония; Йордан Беловодски –  Браншова асоциация за текстил и облекло, България
Abstract: Corporate and social responsibility is one of the most important subjects in clothing and textile industry worldwide. It covers mostly the fashion industry and mainly the production capacities. The number of the byers looking for a CSR certified production capacities from the clothing industry is increasing, so the companies will have to adjust to those requirements.  Since most of the requirements under the CSR standards ( SA8000 and  BSCI/SEDEX/ etc) are  covered by the national  laws, the companies will just have to work on their improvements and to identified the discrepancies trough self-assessment. In purpose to help companies to do that, we develop a QCC (Quality control checkpoints) and procedure for self-assessment, so the companies can follow the requirements and make certain adjustments. Further, under Macedonia/Bulgaria IPA cross border project a  SCR label TRUSTED BALKAN APPAREL was develop with the aim of  helping companies from the Balkan region to implement ISO 26000 standard and to be recognized by the buyers as a SCR complied companies.
Keywords: Corporate and social responsibility, clothing industry, self-assessment, quality control check points, ISO 26000, Trusted Balkan apparel.

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2.Приложение на експертна система за дизайн на униформи за стюардеси
Автори: О. Захаревич, И. Пайенок, О. Хасанова, Ю. Вовк –  Хмелницки Национален 
Университет, Украйна
Abstract: Nowadays industrial world faces a lot of changes every day due to the rapid development of innovative technologies as well as globalization and fast spreading of information. In order to keep pace with trends, sewing industry and apparel design are obliged to use at least some kind of artificial intelligence (AI) along with CAD-systems and digitization techniques. Thus, the main purpose of this work is to develop a way to use the element of AI such as an expert system to design a stewardess uniform.
The hypothesis of the study is as follows: the stewardess uniform might be designed based on the typical design documentation of the garment that is already constructed at the given sewing enterprise. 
Input data for the development of the productive model of the expert system is information about range of stewardess uniforms that are used by various airlines. The assortment of the uniforms is analyzed. Based on the results of the analysis the way of decision-making to select a design prototype of the given uniform is developed. The stewardess uniform, which is constructed based on the recommendations of the expert system, is designed and presented in the paper.
Keywords: expert system, stewardess uniform, assortment, design.

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Статии в брой  12

1.Вътрешни комуникации в текстилната и модната индустрия
Автори: Евелина Христова – Нов Български университет, София – България
Abstract: Internal communications are crucial for the organizational success nowadays. There are certain specifics of the internal communications in the textile and fashion industry in Bulgaria, based on the globalization processes. The paper reviews some of the main specifics and pays particular attention to the organizational structure and the cultural differences that may lead to failure or success.
Keywords: internal communications, Bulgarian textile and fashion industry, organizational culture, organizational structure

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2.Отражение на социалната среда върху детското облекло

Автори: Д-р Росица Рангелова  – Нов Български университет, София – България
Abstract: Nowadays diverse social environment has become one of the most important factors shaping the choice of clothing for children. In this environment today’s children form their taste, lifestyle and style of dressing. The younger the children are, the more they are dependent on the choice of their parents, who in turn select clothes for them depending on their social environment and lifestyle.
 From early age children have been influenced by cartoons and computer characters who showering them from all sides, and quite logically copying theyr vision. Urban culture, imposed as a lifestyle by fashion magazines promoted through films, and creation of ” fashion icons”, including films on children’s cartoon channels, have also an influenced on children’s wardrobe.
In addition, it has become increasingly important for children to be dressed in a way approved by their peers. From this perspective, culture of styles in modern fashion is key rolein modern man’s ability to communicate and be accepted among people and groups with diverse lifestyles.

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