Статии 2019г.

=== Публикувани в брой 1/2019 ===

1. Създаване на плюшени прежди изработени TAPESTRY за производство на оригинални арт произведения на WEAVE SYSTEM  

Автори: проф. д-р Елсайд Елнашар – Кафрелшейх университет, Египет  

Abstract: The basis of the design of handmade chenille yarns and fabrics is similar to the other ways of designing velvety fabrics with the same effect as the woven fabric on paper. The boxes are of the same size that should be shown on the cloth. This is why a special type of square paper is usually used for this purpose. The weavers use handwork: a number of shuttles as much as the number of colors available. It is characterized by its cohesive strength in the places where the threads are woven, where we have sets of ribbons. one of the main objectives of the research is to devise a new method for the development of hand-made textile products and the purposes used in hand-made chenille fabrics are decorative fabrics, ladies’ fabrics (evening cloths), pendants, curtains, Broudray, Furnishing fabrics and carpets. the stages of the design and handmade chenille, 1) in the case of simple fabrics: a) weft in one color continuous, b) the use of stripes of the cross of the flesh, whether different colors of the chenille weft or the use of different materials with different Tex count and different specifications; First in the case of simple fabrics: in this type of design of the chenille of handmade simple and easy so as not to draw on the squared paper and the resulting effects are automatic and simple. And the formation and pile of the chenille (the process of the first weaving), which have their distinctive features. Second in the case of embossed fabrics. Handmade design of pile and chenille, formation chenille weft, the design of the chenille weave is designed so that the horizontal rows have the vertical position parallel to the warp threads to be woven, the second weaving process, the woven fabric structures of the cloth, handmade chenille according to the purpose for which the cloth is used. For example, tablecloths, curtains and pendants the production of one square meter of chenille carpets takes seven hours and is produced by one textile worker assisted by a youngster. The production of a meter of hand-made carpets takes at least seven days and is produced by a number of boys, ranging from three to five. This is in addition to saving about 25% of the wool used in the blaze with handmade chenille carpets in traditional carpets.

Keywords: Chenille Yarn, Chenille Tapestry, Original artworks

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2. Алгоритми за оценка по критерии на хармонията на типологичните диапазони на режещите линии в облеклото 

Автори: Славинска A. Л., Сирoтенко Syrotenko O. П., Кулешова С. Г., Захаркевич О. В. – Хмелницки Национален Университет, Украйна

Abstract: The main objective of the study is to develop the algorithms to assess by criteria the harmony of the typological ranges of cutting lines in clothes. In order to develop the algorithms models of the analytical description of the restrictions in the modification process of the designing object were described. The developed algorithms are as follows: algorithm to specify the anthropometric information in the system of projection dimensions of harmonious female body; algorithm to classify the typical bodies by the indices of deviation in the net of harmonious cutting lines; algorithm to transform the general sketch of harmonious female body into the given body type; algorithm to design the universal construction for the transformation chain of typological range of designing object; algorithm to modify the horizontal projection cutting lines into curve lines of the garment; algorithm to define the designing object; algorithm to form the production model of the knowledge base of expert system.

Keywords: algorithm, harmonious, clothes, typological range.

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=== Публикувани в брой 2/2019 ===

1. Мода, текстил и технологии

Автори: ас. д-р. Динка Якимова-Касабова – „Академия за Музикално, Танцово и Изобразително изкуство“, България

Abstract: The article gives an overview of the latest technological methods in the textile and fashion industry. It studies contemporary trends in production and looks at its effects on the planet. It outlines alternatives for more environmentally friendly and sustainable production.

Keywords: textile industry, fashion, technology

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2. Пътуване в историята на декорация и египетските обзавеждания … планирането е подходящо за   “HAND LOOM

Автори: проф. д-р Елсайд Елнашар – Кафрелшейх университет, Египет

Abstract: Curtains and curtains Passementerie are used to describe a range of decorative textile ribbons, such as sashes, cilia and ropes, using different techniques. The area of curtains Passementerie and strips of furniture that made in the style of lacy has been put on the market as long ago as 1950. In millions of tons in upholstery, furniture, curtain fabrics, bags and shoes, the craft is a handmade manufacture of curtains and strips used in bedspreads; It is currently being developed into a mechanical industry using modern machines. The leaders are divided into two types: the first is handicraft by hand, and the product is exported to the world market due to the accuracy of the industry, its quality and the raw materials used and the high demand for the purchase of products manufactured by hand, while the second type is the manufacture of Passementerie using modern machinery, In the village of Mahlet Marhoum the province of Gharbia governorate Egypt.

Keywords: Egypt, handicraft, textile ribbons

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3. Прилагане на фрактови графики като иновативна технология в дизайна на облеклото 

Автори: Кулешова С. Г., Дмитришин Т. В., Гловацкая О. Е. -Хмелницки Национален Университет, Украйна

Abstract: The research is devoted to the application of fractal algorithms in the fashion industry. The authors’ concept of program development has been improved and tested for the method of clothing design using non-linear creative sources such as fractals. The layout structures of the fractal organization of the authors’ collection are constructed. Determined proportional correlations have been applied in the process of women’s clothes designing. The correlations were presented as signs-symbols, which became the basis for the creation of an artistic shape. Examples of using fractal images as a means of artistic expression in fashion design are presented. A fractal algorithm is visualized for the design of a clothing model material using special fractal filters of graphic editors. The clothing model with design of a material in the form of fractal prints is developed and sewn out. An author’s collection of women’s ensembles of outfits entitled “Spiralisation” was made. It has been designed using ornamental compositions on the basis of fractals principle, used in trimming of the clothes.

Keywords: fractal graphics, fractal algorithm, innovative technology, adaptability, clothing design, clothes models, fashion, prints.

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4. Проект и образователни програми: “Платформи за инженерното образование, конкурентноспособно производство за шевната промишленост”

Автори: А. Славинская, О. Захаркевич, Й. Кошевко, О. Сиротенко – Хмелницки Национален Университет, Украйна

Abstract: Nowadays educational processes become more and more entertainment as well as highly engaged with informational and innovative technologies in every subject area. Often it is useful to provide skills by using some training platforms those are discussed in the current work.

Training platforms for providing skills are as follows: logistic one that means to motivate and to make a professional occupation such as a clothing designer, a seamstress, a technologist popular among the youngsters; industrial platform or cluster innovation include demonstrational test sites, education centers, expositions, top ten of the garments range; public platform consists of the top five indicators of success (always in trend, style, timeless, chic in the space of the Ukrainian background); the last one is the educational platform that is a pilot project of staffing in sewing industry (the platform includes several components).

Keywords: Training platforms, logistic, pilot project, sewing industry.

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=== Публикувани в брой 3/2019 ===

1. Подобряване на качеството на рязане на текстилни материали 

Автори: Прибеха Д., Смутко С., Мица В. – Хмелницки Национален Университет, Украйна

Abstract: The article presents the results of development cutting equipment of sewing enterprises. The quality of the product is laid already at the stage of cutting the textile materials into parts. At present, the level of development of the technology of clothing manufacturing has increased considerably, based on the experience gained by enterprises on the implementation of scientific developments. Therefore, there was a need for updating and replenishing information on the details of sewing details and developments.

In the work the analysis of modern technology of cutting materials and modern cutting equipment for the purpose of cutting materials rolls. The construction of a device for transverse cutting of roll materials, which has advantages due to the use of the carriage with the transport mechanism as an additional module of the cutting tape machine, is proposed. In this case, the quality of the cutting process increases, as well as the energy intensity and metal content of the device are reduced.

Keywords: cutting of textile materials, cutting equipment, clothing manufacture, cutting parameters, rolled materials.

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2. Семиотичен поглед към модната индустрия

Автори: гл. ас. д-р Иво Иванов Велинов – Нов Български университет

Abstract: The proposal of this paper is closely integrated within the theme of the conference and contains reference to cultural semiotics and cultural branding in fashion consumption contexts. Fashion industry has been studied as an operative model for implementing cultural vibrancy, creative economy, tangible and intangible assets whereby culture is a necessity for sustainable development. The discussion concerning tendencies and innovations in fashion industry is confronted by quite serious challenges not only in the business world, but in consumerism and materialism in the context of fashion consumption, trends and culture.

Keywords: branding; creativity; knowledge; semiotics; culture.

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3. Парите – символ и характерен признак на  цивилизацията

Автори: Елена Тодорова

Abstract: This article deals with the symbolic meaning of money since their appearance until the present day. The accent is on the place of coins in the monetary system. Various types of coins and their role as a metaphoric sign have been researched, as well as their function as an information carrier, pre-determining different forms of social activity.

Keywords: money, coins, symbols, sign.

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=== Публикувани в брой 4/2019 ===

1. Лийн производството в шевната индустрия на България

Автори: Ас. Елена Атанасова Благова – докторант,  гл. ас. инж. Благойка Илиева Пълева-Кадийска – Югозападен университет “Неофит Рилски”, Технически факултет, катедра “Машиностроене и технологии” – Благоевград, България

Abstract: Increased competition in the sewing industry requires demand and the introduction of innovations to improve efficiency and production quality without increasing costs. The paper discusses the principles of Lean Systems and their application in the sewing industry in Bulgaria. The value stream is mapped, according to the specifics of the production of sewing products – ready made garments and a new value stream model is presented in which pre-and post-production activities are optimized.

Keywords: Lean Systems, sewing industry, value stream

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2. Образователни предизвикателства свързани с устойчивостта на модната индустрия

Автори:  Капка Манасиева – Варненски свободен университет „Черноризец Храбър“

Abstract: The fashion industry today is one of the most unsustainable global business sectors – contributing to the depletion of fossil energy, deforestation caused by drought and water use, pollution caused by chemical dyeing and unethical attitudes towards workers. These negative impacts lead to mega problems related to the economy, the environment and society. This article focuses on fashion design education as one of the aspects that support the paradigms of society, and the young people are drivers of trends. Fashion and sustainability are examined in their contemporary understanding of connectivity and the role of education in sustainable development. The focus is on the new educational paradigm – design for sustainable development. The challenges of fashion training for sustainable fashion design are presented. Finally, competencies in fashion design and development of sustainable design thinking are exposed.

 Keywords: fashion industry, sustainability, fashion design, education.

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3. Специализирано компютърно проектиране, 3D моделиране и системи с отворен  код приложими в модната и текстилната индустрия

Автори: Тихомир Доврамаджиев, Кремена Цанкова, Гинка Жечева – Технически университет, Варна

Abstract: Modern technological means are increasingly used in the field of fashion and textile industry. At the design stage, the application of specialized computer software systems is a necessity. They help for more efficient, precise and quality design of the developed models. In practice specialized program products designed for specific needs, universal CAD systems, vector and raster programs, as well as open-source systems are used. The present study aims to analyze leading specialized software applications in the fashion and textile industry, paying particular attention to open-source 3D systems, where anatomical and anthropological parameters are assembled, making it possible to construct correctly the developed models.

Keywords: 3D, Open-source, Blender, MakeHuman, Clothes

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=== Публикувани в брой 5/2019 ===

1. Влияние на комфортни елементи от древно египетските преплетени обувки в модния дизайн за лятото 

Автори: Адина-Виктория ALBU – Университет в Орадея, Факултет по енергетика и индустриален мениджмънт, Катедра по Текстил, Кожи и индустриално управление, B.St. Delavrancea 4, 410058, Орадея, Румъния

 Abstract: At human foot we are passionate about creating the world’s most comfortable woven sandal, but the secret comfort features we build into every pair will only work if your woven sandal fit correctly and work properly with your feet. For Designer to provide a wealth of information about looking after these miracles of biological engineering, wander, stroll or saunter in the utmost comfort. In this article, basic definitions and elements of woven footwear comfort and understanding comfort of textile materials, its relevance to braided footwear choice and some assessment methods have been discussed. The impact of fabric and braided footwear attributes on braided footwear comfort was explored. Psychological, physical and physiological perceptions of braided footwear comfort were reviewed, including subjective and objective modes of assessment. A thorough discussion of handle comfort was presented; including assessment methods for most researchers has been on sensorial and thermal comfort.

Keywords: Braided, Comfort Elements, Ancient Egyptian, Footwear.

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2. Замърсителите в кожарската промишленост 

Автори: Дарина Желева, Маргарита Колева – ХТМУ, катедра „Основи на химичната технология“

Abstract:  The influence of leather factories on the environment is due to the flow of liquid, solid and gaseous waste materials and the use of raw hides and skins, energy, auxiliary materials and water. The main pollutants, emitted by the waste water, are formed in the wet treatment in the processes of unhairing, liming and tanning. The disposal of neutral salts during the leather processing is among the most important problems of leather production. The gases and adours released into the air are formed at different stages of processing, mainly in finishing. This study summarizes the types of wastes in the leather industry, the possibilities for their regulation, processing and re-use as new materials.

Keywords: raw hides and skins, wastes, processing, reuse

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